Pre- and post-procedure skincare – what does the evidence tell us?

August 27, 2025

What skincare should we recommend for our patients before and after cosmetic procedures? We at ESK Skincare are often asked this question! The literature has been surprisingly inconsistent about skincare recommendations before and after treatments, from the minimally invasive and non-energy based ones (injectables, microdermabrasion, microneedling, threads and chemical peels) through to energy-based procedures including ablative and non-ablative lasers, IPL and radiofrequency microneedling. Surveys of practitioners offering these treatments show a lack of consensus on best practice. No wonder it’s confusing!

Common sense tells us that we want pre-treatment skin that is well moisturised with as little recent sun damage as possible. Post-treatment we want to minimise side-effects (especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), promote healing, reduce inflammation and enhance results. But what does the evidence say?

With the demand for these procedures on the rise, and more and more patients turning to social media for “information”, there is a real need to provide our patients with expert, evidence-based skincare advice. Luckily, we are seeing some guidelines emerge based on published reviews of the available literature, and round table expert discussions. And we are pleased to report that ESK Skincare’s evidence-backed ingredients slot right into these guidelines!

Read on as we delve further into how we can help your patients.

Sun protection – a non-negotiable!

No surprises here, with virtual unanimous agreement among the experts that no matter the procedure, strict sun avoidance measures are advised for at least 4 weeks prior to any procedure and for 4-8 weeks after. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun not only causes photoaging but is pro-inflammatory and has obvious effects on melanocytes, increasing pigmentation problems.

Proper sun protection includes daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF that blocks UVA and UVB rays from the sun. This should be reapplied every 2 hours and be supplemented by a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses when outdoors. This also applies to patients with skin of colour. Look for a sunscreen with physical sunscreen ingredients (Zinc oxide and Titanium dioxide), they tend to be better tolerated by sensitive skin than chemical sunscreen ingredients.

How ESK can help: ESK’s daily sunscreen, Zinc Shade, contains zinc oxide as its active ingredient, a mineral sunscreen that sits on the skin, rather than being absorbed into it, physically blocking UVA and UVB rays. It is proven to be safe and effective and is non-comedogenic with anti-inflammatory properties. Our formulation feels light on the skin without that white sheen patients usually dislike, so is suitable for everyday use.

Gentle cleansing

Twice daily gentle cleansing is recommended in the lead up to the procedure and in the days and weeks afterwards, with a soap-free, physiologic (4-5) pH cleanser. Harsh cleansers, particularly alkaline soap-based ones, tend to be pro-inflammatory. Gentle cleansing also means no physical scrubs, rinsing off with lukewarm water and gently patting dry without any vigorous rubbing. Easy does it!

How ESK can help: With a pH range of 4.5 - 5.0, ESK’s Calming Cleanse is a, soap-free creamy cleanser containing soothing botanicals that is gentle enough to be used twice a day.

Moisturiser and active ingredients

Pre-procedure we’re looking for well-hydrated skin with an intact barrier function. Moisturisers with gentle actives are ideal. We want to avoid anything that might trigger inflammation or sensitivity (this includes fragrance). After the procedure we are looking to soothe inflammation and promote healing.

How ESK can help: Our Repair+ is a nourishing moisturiser that contains niacinamide, a proven anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, moisturising and pigmentation stabiliser, along with a slug of hydration-boosting ceramides and mid-molecular weight hyaluronic acid, peptides, squalane and panthenol. It’s also fragrance-free.

You can complement Repair+ with our Hydraboost HA Serum for an extra hydrating and collagen-promoting shot of hyaluronic acid in an evidence-based mix of molecular weights.

Pigmentation correctors

Pigmentation issues are a common indication for cosmetic procedures, and also ironically one of the main concerns around side-effects, namely post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. For both reasons, most guidelines recommend considering a pigmentation corrector in the pre-procedure skincare routine, especially in patients with skin of colour. Hydroquinone is often suggested but has well-known downsides. 4-N-buterylresorcinol (4-N-B) is a tyrosinase-inhibitor proven to reduce melanin production that’s gentler and as effective (if not more) than hydroquinone. Don’t forget that retinoids like retinal are also tyrosinase inhibitors and other anti-oxidants such as niacinamide and vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid also help combat pigmentation. So too do hydroxy acids.

Note that most guidelines recommend holding off on retinoids and anti-pigment ingredients including vitamin C and hydroxy acids, for the first week after most treatments, particularly ablative ones, as they may irritate. They can be gradually introduced 1-4 weeks post-procedure depending on the need, or held off until healing is complete.

How ESK can help: ESK has a suite of products containing proven pigmentation-busting ingredients suitable for use before and after procedures. Enlighten contains tyrosinase-inhibiting 4-N-B, Ultimate A contains retinal – gentler and more effective than its old-school cousin retinol; both products also contain niacinamide. You’ll find AHAs in our Smooth Serum or the more gentle PHAs in our Gentle Glow, and L-ascorbic acid in a stable form in our Reverse C Serum.

Conclusion

With proper attention to skincare before and after cosmetic procedures, we have a golden opportunity to help our patients get the best possible results. Thankfully we now have some emerging expert consensus to guide us and a suite of evidence-based ingredients to choose from.